December and January are pretty dismal times for the home-garden cook. The home vegetable gardener (that would be my husband) can at least amuse himself with seed catalogs and starting seeds. (Even as I write, onions and salads are starting to germinate). For the cook, there are no such diversions. When I buy vegetables from the store I realize how much more taste and nutrition are held in my very-local-organic produce.
However, all is not lost. Struggling in our unusually cold winter, protected from deep snow only by unheated, plastic-wrap covered frames, a few brave vegetables survive. Digging under layers of insulating leaves and then deep into the earth, I find bright orange jewels of carrots. The collards and kales and chinese cabbages aren't doing much growing, but their green leaves provide bursts of flavor to stir fries. And, if I can excavate them out of the near-frozen grounds, I have my stalwart leeks - fine and tall, green and white.
Leeks are wonderful vegetables. Part of the allium family (think onion and garlic), they provide great nutritional benefit. Lots of fiber. Supplies us with manganese, iron, B6, folic acid, calcium, potassium, and vitamin C. Stabilizes blood sugar. Alliums have been shown to reduce LDL and raise HDL cholesterol levels (that's good), and to lower blood pressure. Studies have shown that alliums reduce the risk of prostate & colon cancers, and that a flavanoid called kaempferol (present in leeks, tea and some other veggies) lowers ovarian, lung, and pancreatic cancer risks. Way low in calories (16 calories/serving) - although I must confess I usually counter this benefit by combining in some way with butter!
I usually combine my precious leeks with other vegetables - a slow sautee with carrots and collards (as with onions, sautee them first before adding other vegetables), or a quick stir fry with bok choy and garlic, or as part of the vegetable medley in a beef stew - but they do deserve to be highlighted. They are famous in leek and potato soup (hot or cold), and are great in a bechamel (white) sauce laced with parsley, or braised, or in a cheese sauce, or simply sauteed in olive oil until tender and sweet.
As with many vegetables, bigger is not necessarily better. Big leeks look great but are often woody inside. Choose small but firm leeks (1 1/2" or less in diameter). Take off the outer tough leaves and the very top (the really dark green part) of the leek. The tops of the leeks often need a good washing. If you're slicing into small pieces, wash after you've sliced. If you're leaving them large or whole, you can slice lengthwise down the middle of the green part to open them up part-way, and rinse.
Braised Leeks
It's nice to leave the leeks long - cut the tops off, leaving the leeks 6-7" long. slit the green part of the leek to wash. Blanch in boiling water for about 7-10 minutes. Lay in a baking dish. Add butter, a sprinkle of salt, and a small amount of water to cover the bottom. Top with chopped parsley. Cover loosely with aluminum foil. Bake at 325 for 20-30 minutes. For extra fun/flavor, uncover, sprinkle with grated swiss cheese or a mix of cheese and breadcrumbs, scatter some small pieces of butter on top, and broil for a few minutes.
Sauteed Leeks
Slice the leeks crosswise into 3/4" pieces, and wash thoroughly. Melt olive oil and/or butter in stainless steel sautee or frying pan. Add the leeks and let cook for a long time at medium low heat, until leeks are tender and sweet - they'll almost melt.
The other night, for extra richness, I did a quick sauce. After the leeks were soft, I added a couple of tablespoons of flour to the pan and coated the leek/butter mix, and let it cook for a few minutes. Then I took the pan off the heat, added some hot milk, stirred very fast to mix, returned it back to the heat, and let it cook for a short time. I also put in a splash or two of sherry. Right before serving, I added a whole bunch of chopped parsley. Divine! (Sorry, I didn't keep track of amounts - it'll depend on the quantity of leeks that you start with. As a rough guide, Julia Child - my bible long before her deserved bestseller success - recommends 2T butter, 3T flour, 2C milk, 1/4 t salt for a basic bechamel).If you're looking for a gluten free/dairy free way to dress leeks up, I would recommend sauteing them slowly (as above) in olive oil. After they're really soft, add a little rice flour or arrowroot starch, coat and heat for a few minutes. Then add a white wine/stock mix, let simmer until thickened, and mix in the parsley at the end, as above.
For me, leeks are an essential part of winter vegetable eating. Their taste improves after a frost. They are deeply nourishing, and their warm sweet flavor lightens a cold winter night.
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